Traveling west on I90 across South Dakota is a rather entertaining drive, thanks to the never-ending parade of hand-painted signs for curious attractions like the infamous Wall Drug, which apparently attracts visitors with its five cent coffee and animatronic life-size T-Rex. You’ll also pass by some interesting sculptures, a pretty legit looking 1800s town, a reptile garden, and a corn palace. Yes, a corn palace. While all of these attractions are intriguing, we had a mission to get to our first destination before dark, so onward we went. Similar to when the Colorado Front Range comes into view when driving west across the plains, equally stunning is seeing the Badlands rise from the prairie.
Badlands National Park runs parallel to I90 and makes for a fantastic quick detour on your way to the Black Hills, but I recommend carving out some extra time to spend here if you can. As you drive south towards the park on Highway 240, the prairie literally gives way to a rugged landscape teeming with geologic diversity. Within a short mile or two from the park entrance is the Big Badlands Overlook, which is a definite get-out-and-stretch-your-legs kind of stop as it gifts you some incredible uninterrupted views of the park. Continue down the road a little ways, and you will find the trailheads for Door, Window, Castle, and Notch. All four of these trails offer fantastic little hikes that wind through the hoodoos, as well as an above average opportunity to see wild bighorn sheep. On a recent December trip through the park, we spotted a family group of bighorns ascending up into the hills near the Castle trailhead. I followed them back into the maze of spires, hoping to capture an interesting image of them, but they were nowhere to be found. I took a minute to marvel at my surroundings and the beautiful late afternoon light filtering through the clouds and then I heard some rocks tumbling from above. I turned to see the sheep cresting the top of one of the closest buttes. They paused for a quick photo shoot before continuing on their way. Off to dinner, I presume.
Bighorn sheep traverse a ridge line near the Castle Trail in Badlands National Park.
Crowds are very thin here in the summer compared to a lot of other National Parks, but in the winter, the park is almost entirely void of humans. Sunrise and sunset are definitely my favorite times to witness the grandeur of the park and it usually means more wildlife activity. Plan on some great photo opportunities on Norbeck Pass, White River Valley Overlook, Yellow Mounds, and Pinnacles Overlook. There are less lodging options in the winter, but there are still some pretty good spots in nearby Wall, which is about 8 miles from the Pinnacles Entrance Station. Most recently, I stayed at America’s Best Value Inn and found it to be a really good value for the money. The room was recently remodeled, had a fridge and a microwave, and it took me about 10 minutes to get back to the park for a sunrise photo shoot.
The conjunction of Jupiter, Saturn, and a crescent moon at Badlands National Park on December 16th, 2020.
Pinnacles Overlook is a great location to take in a sunrise while at Badlands.
The first rays of light dance across the spires near the Pinnacles Overlook.
Sunrise near the Pinnacles Overlook in Badlands National Park.
Add Custer State Park to your list of must-see winter destinations. This is a place where you could spend an afternoon or a week. If you’ve been to Yellowstone and marveled at the convergence of ecosystems, then Custer will not disappoint. It’s massive (71,000 acres) and will constantly surprise you that it’s only a measly state park. Give the state of South Dakota some love for this one as this is a world-class state park that feels as grand as a national park. While a couple of my favorite sections of the park are closed in winter, there is still a long list of must-dos and the best part? No people. I know, I’m sounding like a broken record on the lack of people thing, but these places are just so much better when you have room to breathe.
Curious bison approach our truck near French Creek in Custer State Park.
Herd of bighorn sheep near the State Game Lodge in Custer State Park.
Wildlife Loop Road offers some great opportunities to see bison, wild burros, bighorn sheep, deer, elk, coyote…you get the idea. The 18-mile loop takes you on a journey from rolling prairie to deep canyons and your best bet for seeing some critters is to travel in the morning or evening. We saw a heard of bighorn sheep and some frisky bison that stopped at the back of my truck to do some afternoon tailgate licking. Not sure what the flavor was, but I’m guessing a nice medley of delicious Nebraska silt loam and road salt. All of the park’s lakes are incredible in the winter and are great spots for ice fishing, taking a quick hike, or just admiring the views while enjoying a tailgate sandwich. Make sure to check out Center, Stockade, and Bismark Lakes. The infamous Needles highway up to the Needle’s Eye is closed in the winter, but an alternative drive that won’t disappoint is HWY 87 up to Sylvan Lake. It is hard not to marvel at the engineering of this roadway. Be sure to check out the fantastic trail that wraps around Sylvan Lake- it is amazing regardless of season.
An absolute requirement for lunch or dinner in this area is Black Hills Burger and Bun, located in the quaint town of Custer. They offer a varied selection of epic burgers and delicious shakes. In the summer, plan on waiting in line for a while, but walk right on in during the winter months. Custer has a great market, some interesting shops, a solid outdoor gear shop, and some year-round lodging options. We stayed about 29 miles north of here in a great little cabin near Nemo. Our spot, The Cabin at Green Mountain, was more than big enough for the two of us and could definitely handle 6 guests no problem. It was super cozy, perfectly located, and had an incredible front porch for taking in the views.
The Cabin at Green Mountain near Nemo, South Dakota, is a great place to stay for up to 6 people.
From this location, we were less than an hour away from Terry Peak Ski Area, which offers the best downhill skiing and riding in South Dakota. Lift tickets are very affordable compared to most resorts I’ve been to, and there are some pretty incredible lodging options within a couple minutes of the slopes. The closest towns to the ski area are Lead and Deadwood. Lead is a pretty interesting old mining town that is fun to explore for a little while, but most of the shops and restaurants can be found in nearby historic Deadwood. Next stop, Spearfish Canyon.
A fresh dusting of snow covers the crags and pines in Spearfish Canyon near Spearfish, South Dakota.
As we drove down the canyon, my co-pilot (my father) was eloquently narrating every detail of our journey. Some fresh snow had fallen over night so the pines and crags were covered. The vibrant blue sky was beautifully contrasted by the earth-toned canyon walls. Spearfish Creek flows year round. During the summer months, there is typically a constant stream of traffic heading up and down the canyon. This time of year? You guessed it. Nobody. The road from the Spearfish Canyon Lodge up to Roughlock falls is closed to cars this time of year, so grab some snow shoes and hit the trail from the lodge up to the falls. The lodge even offers a pretty nice winter snowshoe package that includes, well, snowshoes, of course, as well as breakfast AND a free cocktail après hike. The trail from the lodge to the falls is incredible any time of the year with my favorite seasons being fall and winter. Just park in the trailhead parking lot behind the lodge and enjoy one of the most beautiful hikes in the state (it’s about a two mile hike roundtrip with about 500’ of elation gain).
Spearfish Creek rolls through Spearfish Canyon after a dusting of fresh snow.
The town of Spearfish offers up a beautifully-restored historic downtown with a wide range of shops and restaurants. Thirsty? Have a Pile O'Dirt Porter over at Crow Peak. Then, head on over to Spearfish Brewing Company to grab a burger and an Elephant Man. Spearfish is probably my favorite town in the hills and it definitely has different personalities depending on the season. Winter’s personality is welcoming, relaxed, and laid-back. My favorite quote for the day was: “this canyon is so nice, let’s drive it twice.” We did just that and then headed back to the cabin for some beyond-prime New York strips cooked on the grill. The next morning, we got an early start so we could take the long way south through the hills. On our way back east, we drove through the Badlands again and enjoyed one last tailgate sandwich with incredible views before jumping back on the interstate to head home.
Trails converge at the Pinnacles Overlook at Badlands National Park in South Dakota.
